Why Don't Philadelphians Go to Northern Jersey Beaches?
Belmar boardwalk.
BY JILLY MacDOWELL | I returned to Philly this spring after living at the beach in Jersey for five years. As I waved goodbye to my Philly homies heading “down the shore” this past month, I wondered, why don't Philadelphians, in general, go to beaches north of Atlantic City?
See, I didn't live down the shore. I lived in Monmouth County, arguably known as Central New Jersey — in Bradley Beach, a great little sleepy non-commercial township between Asbury Park and Belmar. The process of moving to Illadelph, including trapping a cat, involved seven trips back and forth. None of them exceeded 75 minutes.
This is 15 minutes longer than it takes to get to Atlantic City, but at least 20 minutes shorter than the journey to Cape May. Make it make sense! When did we agree to hand the north over to... the northerners? I get it, seems fair, but if you haven't experienced the night-and-day difference between northern and southern NJ beaches, I urge you to consider Monmouth for next summer... up the shore.
Because Monmouth is really very nice. It has much to offer and things that are un-ironically cool. Starting with the closest to Philly (from NJ-295N to 195E which turns into 138E and plops you 10 blocks from the beach in Belmar), here's a quick rundown:
As the most "Jersey Shore" town in Monmouth, Belmar has its charms: Bruce's 10th Avenue and E Street, adorable cottages, every retired roadie on the Eastern seaboard, and the legendary D'Jai's (Oceanside Bar & Cafe) and Bar Ant(-icipation). Backwards ball caps, ankle bracelets, underboob, Hollister — you know the vibes. You can rent a slightly crappy house for $20k for the whole summer (that's a little over $1000/week, which is unbeatable).
Go north to adjacent hamlet Avon-by-the-Sea to find superb landscaping, classy though few Airbnb options, discreet wealth and great vegan food at Seed to Sprout. If a Nancy Meyers film was set in Jersey, it would be set in Avon. That's Avon (pronounced "a" as in "actual," accent on the "von," or like Avalon without the "al").
Peak season Bradley Beach is full but not packed. That’s the looming Asbury Ocean Club in the distance.
Next up is my beloved Bradley Beach. This historic town, named for Asbury founder and designer James A. Bradley, is about 40 percent annual residents, so it's ver-r-r-ry laidback. It boasts a spotless beach, decent jetty surfing, a tasteful boardwalk and all amenities, including a movie theater, bowling alley and greater restaurant density than any other shore town! DelPonte's pizzeria, bakery and new gelateria are iconic; Luna Verde's Mexican vegan is astonishingly good.
You've heard of Ocean Grove, right? The Camp Meeting Association that owns the land under all the private residences? The one with all the permanent tents on prime oceanfront real estate? And all the restored Victorians? It's cute, congested and, for my money, a day trip kind of town. Its northern border, on Wesley Lake, faces Asbury. In fact, there are lakes between most of these Monmouth towns. Expect to brake for geese crossings.
The "core" of the northern shore is Asbury Park. You've probably already heard good things! It's the usual mix of a few stalwart venues (long live the Saint!), an inventive restaurant scene, oodles of vintage/tattoo/maker boutiques, and new construction everywhere. It is a long way from the desolate gang playground of the late 20th century.
See if you can find this Isaiah Zagar tribute in downtown Asbury Park!
The walkable downtown area centered around Cookman Avenue will satisfy every diner – Rice Asian for sushi takeout, Taka for dine-in; sister hotspots Barrio Costero and Reyla for Mexican and Middle Eastern, respectively; Pascal & Sabine for chic Parisian. Cookman Creamery does ice cream sorcery. And Seaside Heights fans can find Maruca's spiral-sauced pizza up on Asbury's historic boardwalk!
The boardwalk is also a constantly evolving art exhibit, thanks to the Wooden Walls Project work with muralists and installation artists. Find the Amber Lynn heart! And the Shepherd Fairey punk murals! Then find your inner child at the Silverball Arcade! The "City by the Sea" is a place to have fun; September brings the annual Sea Hear Now music fest, organized by music vet Danny Clinch. Last year, a crowd of more than 25k descended upon Asbury's beach for headliners Smashing Pumpkins and Pearl Jam. This year, it's Stevie Nicks and Green Day.
Unlike the aforementioned small towns, Asbury offers a variety of hotels; consider the Citizen M-ish Asbury, a reimagined Y with a rooftop bar & movie screening deck; Asbury Ocean Club, the inevitable highrise no one wanted but whose infinity pool is just begging for a cannonball; or the recently opened adults-only St. Laurent with its Slim Aaron feels.
The Stone Pony, rocking since 1974. There may not be a better feeling than being at a beach concert.
North of the AP "core" and spanning about five miles, we have:
Deal, a drivethrough town, is for ooh-ing and ahh-ing at the mostly pre-1980 homes and their private beaches.
Wind up in Long Branch, which is coming back, slowly, and sometimes quickly. New hotels, chic high-rise condos, and a newly commercialized boardwalk with high-end shops and better oceanside food than most. On the other side of Ocean Avenue you can find just about all of Jersey's best Latin foods; Long Branch is more than a third Latinx.
Keep going to picturesque Monmouth Beach and Sea Bright on the Shrewsbury Bay – more coastline, more water sports! Anjelica's is arguably the county's best Italian food. Ubiquitous restaurateur David Burke has a few spots up here too, as well as in Belmar. Oceanside rentals are your best bet in this neck of the sand; units were constructed in recent years behind a post-Sandy seawall that's necessary but frankly a bummer from the street side.
It's just a few short miles to Sandy Hook, a decommissioned army base with an unexpectedly close-up view of New York City. Its beaches are free, except the very popular clothing-optional one, and there's an appealing wildness about the entire area.
Hartshorne Woods Park offers trails and views. And solace during the pandemic.
From here you can also loop around to the Highlands -- find top-notch hiking and views at Hartshorne Woods Park, Sandy Hook Bay, Mount Mitchill Scenic Overlook, and dense little downtown blocks. Not the shore, but water-adjacent and worth a trip for some exquisite ice cream from Nicholas Creamery.
South of the Asbury core to the Ocean County line you'll find:
The absurdly photogenic Spring Lake, a Cape May analogue, is for a bed & breakfast with the parents. Or a baby-moon. Something wholesome. Grace & Frankie. More quiet money. Stunning beach. Next door, the town of Sea Girt continues the pattern.
Finally, it's Manasquan! The Squan is for surfing and lobster rolls. Its diminutive Main Street is packed with healthy dining options. La Mondina in nearby Brielle is a NJ Housewives favorite. Right over the bridge is Ocean County's Point Pleasant Beach, known famously for Jenkinson's, Kohr's frozen custard, boardwalk gaming and the "traditional" boardwalk experience a Philadelphian might crave.
You can walk along the ocean, mostly on boardwalk, the entire distance from Manasquan to Asbury, about nine miles. You won't find any ferris wheels but you might find your new favorite beach.
Manasquan inlet.
